Destination of the Week

Burgundy

Warm, velvety, exciting, sensual, relaxing.   That's Burgundy and its wines.  As for the wines, well the most prominent grapes grown there are pinot noir and chardonnay.   In fact, nearly every wine of the region is made from these grapes.  But there are exceptions which include Aligoté, Pinot Blanc Gamay, and Sauvignon Blanc.

You'd think the list would be much longer given the wide range of tastes produced.   A great deal of the reason for that is from the soil and terrain which varies greatly across the districts of Chablis, Côte d'Or, divided into Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise, and Mâconnais.   The terroir changes rapidly - even within a few feet, allowing vintners to concentrate on developing unique tastes from very small areas.

What all that means is that there are thousands of different tastes and aromas to be experienced in Burgundy . . . from just these two grapes.

And the best way to discover them?   Well conventional wisdom would say book into some of the quaint hotels that populate the area.   Many of the buildings predate the U.S.   Plan nights in Dijon and Beaune, both of which were thriving in the year 1200 even though Julius Caesar had conquered the region around 52 B.C.

Dijon and Beaune (bone) are in what’s called the South of Burgundy, The Cote d’Or (the “slopes of gold”). The Cote d’Or gives us the great Pinot Noir and Chardonnay of Burgundy.  And it is here where the Grand Cru vineyards are clustered and the wines carry only that vineyard name on the label.  From the silky Pinot Noir of the vineyards from charming villages like Chambertin, Nuits St. Georges, Vosnee-Romanee and Vougeot to the luscious Chardonnay of Montrachet and Meursault, the Cote d’Or is the heart of Burgundy for wine lovers.

In the north, in Chablis and ancient small towns like Vezelay, they grow chardonnay under the coolest growing conditions for chardonnay there is in the world. The much cooler climate along with Chablis’ own terroir gives us the crispy and flinty chards that define the region. It’s a separate trip so you should plan at least one night in the North.  

Back in the south, you'll see that the towns run along the Saone River.   From the flood plain, the region's golden slope runs to the northwest. These hills produce the best pinot noir.

If you've chosen stays in hotels, you'll be able to check with each about the vineyards and wineries to visit.   You'll recognize the names since many of the cities have adopted them . . . part of the complex laws and rules of appellations.

If you're a little more daring, opt for seeing Burgundy via barge.   Sounds a little frightening - "barge" doesn't sound too romantic and you may be thinking "boats" and "motion sickness" and crashing through the water.   Well, forget all of that!  

First, they're barges, but they're very romantic.   Onboard, rooms are a little on the small side but usually well appointed and clean.   The closeness actually is romantic.

Second, they spend most of their trip in canals - very narrow and shallow.   The canals have locks at regular intervals and the barges come to a complete stop to "lock through" to the next level of the waterway.

Finally, they're slow.   Very slow.   Usually 1 to 2 miles per hour.   In fact, the engines hardly have to work.   The slow flow of the water, itself does most of the job.

That slow pace means a smooth ride - a glide.   It also means plenty of time to see some of the most beautiful slopes anywhere.   Some days, you'll see the skies dotted with hot air balloons.  It's easy to arrange a ride if you'd like.

From the barge, if you're facing southeast and the weather's right, you may well get a glimpse of Mont Blanc.

Another benefit of the slow ride is that you can usually hop off at any lock and either walk or bike (they're available onboard) from one town to the next.   You'll find yourself waiting for the barge rather than the other way around.

Back onboard, you'll find phenomenal cuisine with a selection of wines accompanying each course.   In addition, the trips feature tours of surrounding towns including the castles and other medieval buildings and artifacts.

Barge tours aren't hard to book.   They're usually a full week but you'll find them fully planned out.   You meet up with the planner - often in Paris - then you're transported to the barge.   From there, it's pure relaxation, great food, and some of the best wines you'll ever sniff, swirl and sip.

Want to book a trip? Start here.

The Wine Experience^sm is your gateway to wine country travel throughout the world. Whether it's a getaway weekend in Sonoma, barging in Burgundy, wearing out your shoes walking the hill towns of Tuscany, or four-wheeling in Australia, the world of wine offers just about any travel experience you're looking for.

Got a destination in mind? Start planning your trip here.