Destination of the Week

The Rhone Valley

The Rhone River Valley . . . majestic, breathtaking, and home of the oldest vineyards in France.   If you have to start somewhere in wine travel, this is the place.

Traveling along the Rhone, you'll see the beauty of the hillsides that create the great wines of the region.   The drive is rustic . . . older buildings and old time factories and plants . . . and vineyards and wineries along the way.  

The history you'll be part of includes Ligurians who were native to the land (as far as recorded history is concerned), The Celts then Greeks then Phoenicians followed by Romans and Vandals, Visigoths, Burgundians, then Ostrogoths, Franks and Saracens . . . and that just gets to the 8th century!   It's diverse, to say the least, and makes for a variety of historical artifacts.  

Not a lot remains but one important carryover from the earliest of times is the trade that navigates both the Rhone and the Saone Rivers.  

Both are navigable for a long distance and were instrumental in developing trade between the region and the rest of the Mediterranean.   Below Lyon, where the Saone River joins it, you'll pass through the historic cities of Vienne, Valence, Avignon and Arles.

                                                                                                                                                                                Larger Map of All French Wine Regions

The Rhone Valley (technically the Saone-Rhone Valley) is probably the most picturesque valley you will find as you follow it from the Alps of Switzerland all the way down to the Mediterranean Sea.   Off the Rhone, you will see canals which allow traffic all the way from the Mediterranean to the North Sea.   Part of the traffic are the leisure travel barges which you can book for a glorious week of food and wine tasting as you travel at a speedy 1-3 miles per hour through the countryside.

The vineyards you'll see produce world renown wines created by the terroir and by the skillful blending of the winemakers.   Along the Saone, Beaujolais reigns and while many become table wines, vineyards near Julienas, Brouilly, Morgon and Chenas produce grand crus that are Beaujolais.   Between Vienne and Montelimar are more reds like Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, St. Joseph, and Cote Rotie, set apart from other reds by the great syrah grape.

Near Avignon is Chateauneuf du Pape.   Small buildings, narrow streets and an obvious upscale air.   Nonetheless, there is a warmth brought about by the climate and the vistas.   Go to the castle at the top of the hill and you'll be able to see most of the countryside and many of the caves where the vintners labor.   The vineyards are older here than farther north and you'll observe many of them growing right on the ground.   The "Papes" are made primarily from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre though up to 15 different varieties are used.

At the Pere Anselme museum, you can get a tremendous amount of information about wine and its history in the region.   As you tour, you'll have plenty of opportunities to taste.   Do it.   Some will be great and some not so.   Choose a couple of bottles to bring home . . . but be prepared:   there aren't many low cost Papes to be had.

The cuisine you'll experience will be terrific with fresh fish and game and mountain cattle fed from berries, grain and hay that leads to scrumptious steaks.   In and around Lyon, you'll be able to taste ham pates, andouillette, and rosette sausages as well as a lyonnaise salad which includes chicken livers and lamb shanks.   Try the fish-mousse cake!

Cheeses . . . you'll find plenty.   Beaufort, Tomme de Savoie, Reblochon, Chevrotin des Alpes, and Dauphinois are among the special cheeses you'll find being made in the region.   There are enough varieties to sample for days without a repeat.   Besides dessert, these make great candidates for a wine and cheese picnic lunch.

As for housing:   you can find quaint hotels and apartments in every town.   There are bed and breakfasts but not many.   Treat yourself and go up a star or two in your hotel ratings here.   You'll enjoy it.

Got a destination in mind? Start planning your trip here.